Essential Balkans : Serbia & Macedonia, Sept 4 - 17, 2018With Jeremy Woodhouse & Luka Esenko
Sept 4 - 17, 2018, max 10 people 
Serbia
Serbia became a stand-alone sovereign republic in the summer of 2006 after Montenegro voted in a referendum for independence from the Union of Serbia and Montenegro.
The end of the Union of Serbia and Montenegro marked the closing chapter in the history of the separation of the six republics of the old Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia which was proclaimed in 1945 and comprised Serbia, Montenegro, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Macedonia. Under Yugoslavia's authoritarian communist leader, Josip Broz Tito, the lid was kept on ethnic tensions. The federation lasted for over 10 years after his death in 1980, but under Serbian nationalist leader Slobodan Milosevic it fell apart through the 1990s. The secession of Slovenia and Macedonia came relatively peacefully, but there were devastating wars in Croatia and Bosnia. Serbia and Montenegro together formed the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia between 1992 and 2003. 
Macedonia
Macedonia was spared the inter-ethnic violence that raged elsewhere in the Balkans following the break-up of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s but it came close to civil war a decade after independence.
Rebels staged an uprising in early 2001, demanding greater rights for the ethnic Albanian minority. The conflict created a wave of refugees and the rebels made territorial gains. After months of skirmishes, EU and Nato support enabled the president, Boris Trajkovski, to strike a peace deal. Under the Ohrid agreement, Albanian fighters laid down their arms in return for greater ethnic-Albanian recognition within a unitary state. The country's name remains a contentious issue. It is still referred to as the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM) at the United Nations. International recognition of the country's split from Yugoslavia in 1991 was held up over Greek fears that its name implied territorial ambitions toward the northern Greek region of Macedonia. Itinerary
Detailed Itinerary
Day 1, Sep 4, Belgrade Arrival to Belgrade in late morning, check in at our centrally located hotel. We start with an afternoon walk through central Belgrade, pass Belgrade’s central square, the pedestrian zone, the Orthodox Cathedral Church to the fortress above the confluence of River Sava into the Danube. We continue through the quiet neighbourhood of Dorcol to the touristy Skadarlija, where we will have our dinner. Beograd (Belgrade), Hotel Moskva “Moskva” Hotel, a landmark of Belgrade, one of the most important architectural gems of the Serbian capital, built in the style of the Russian secession which has been under state protection since the second half of the previous century. It was inaugurated by King Petar I Karadjordjević himself in 1908. The hotel is now completely renovated and in addition to luxurious rooms and suites, the iconic café and restaurant, it also includes a ballroom, 4 conference halls and a new spa centre. With deep respect for its over a century long tradition and value - the renovated hotel „Moskva“ meets the highest modern hospitality standards. Day 2, Sep 5, Belgrade First thing in the morning we will go to visit Kalenic Farmers Market where locals go shopping. Next door is the monumental Church of St Sava, one of the three biggest Orthodox Christian churches in the world. After that we will drive to Zemun, nowadays a quarter of Belgrade, once a small town on its own with many picturesque nooks and a grand vista across the Danube. Beograd (Belgrade), Hotel Moskva Day 3, Sep 6, Belgrade/Fruška Gora/Novi Sad We drive northwards, passing the endless fields covered in wheat, corn and sunflowers to reach Mt Fruska Gora with its monasteries and forests. At its foot is the small baroque town of Sremski Karlovci. A short drive away is Petrovaradin Fortress, overseeing the Danube and the city of Novi Sad on the other side of it. After our lunch, we continue with a walk-through Novi Sad’s beautiful city centre. We will spend the night in Novi Sad. Novi Sad (Petrovaradin), Hotel Leopold Situated on the Danube riverbank and just 200 metres from the Varadin Bridge, Hotel Leopold I offers luxurious accommodation in a Baroque building with views on the Danube and Novi Sad. Day 4, Sep 7, Novi Sad/Valjevo/Bajina Bašta/Mt Tara Sunrise shoot in Novi Sad after which we will sit on our bus and head southwards. We will stop in the town of Valjevo and visit its old high street. In the afternoon we will stop in Bajina Bašta a small town on river Drina with several picture-perfect sights such as the house perched on a rock in the river. From there it’s only a short drive to the top of Mt Tara and our hotel. Mokra Gora (Tara, Zlatibor), Hotel Mecavnik-Drvengrad Day 5, Sep 8, Tara Mountain – Zavojsko Lake – River Drina Today we will go exploring the villages, fields and forests of Tara, including several viewing points providing marvellous vistas and Zavojsko Lake. Weather permitting, we will also descend to the River Drina and go for a boat ride through its canyon. Overnight on Tara. Mokra Gora (Tara, Zlatibor), Hotel Mecavnik-Drvengrad Day 6, Sep 9, Mokra Gora/Zlatibor/Sjenica (or Zlatar?) In the morning we will head to Mokra Gora, a wonderful mountain village with a narrow-gauge railway that will take us for a ride up the hills and pass the old railway stations. Next, we will traverse the golden expanses of Zlatibor highland and then over the wood covered Mt Zlatar we reach Sjenica field, one of the most remote areas of Serbia. O/N Zlatar, Hotel Zlatarski Zlatnik Day 7, Sep 10, Uvac/Pešter/Novi Pazar We start our day with a short hike to the canyon of Uvac, a river that negotiates its way between the mountains in a spectacular zigzag manner that we will observe from high above. Afterwards we will drive across Sjenica and Pešter highlands where Muslims and Christians live side keeping many old traditions alive. In the evening we will arrive to Novi Pazar, a Muslim town with a clearly oriental feel. Day 8, Sep 11, Novi Pazar/Niš Morning shoot in Novi Pazar and by the ancient, 9th c church of St Peter. From there we drive across the Kopaonik massif to reach southeast Serbia and its capital – the city of Niš. Evening shoot in central Niš, including its Ottoman fortress. Nis, Hotel New City The hotel currently has 60 accommodation units, while it has been planned that by the end of 2018 the hotel will increase its capacities to 75 rooms and apartments. A modern hotel ‘a la carte’ restaurant offers famous local dishes as well as specialties of international cuisine, and desserts for all dessert-lovers. Three modern, technically equipped, multifunctional conference rooms are available to guests from Serbia, as well as from abroad, for the organization of meetings, conferences, seminars, presentations and interviews. Day 9, Sep 12, Niš – Donja Lokošnica/Prilep (Macedonia) /Bitola In the morning we will drive to Donja Lokošnica village where most of the local farmers produce chili peppers, most of which they dry in late summer sun creating wonderful carpets of red. We continue to Prilep and there we will visit the city centre and Marko’s towers. After that we will drive to Bitola (40 km). The city is known by its Turkish style bazaar where you can buy everything from fruit and vegetables and parts for vehicles. Having this amazing atmosphere hustle and bustle, people shopping, mixture of all kinds of smells and colors – the perfect place for us. O/N Bitola, Hotel Epinal Surrounded by some of the most well known points of interest in Bitola this beautiful hotel is ideally located on the main street "Shirok sokak", 175 km from the Skopje Airport, 180km from Thessaloniki and only 15km from the Greek border. Day 10, Sep 13, Bitola/Lake Prespa/Ohrid In the morning we visit the ancient Macedonian city, Heraclea Linkestis. Drive to Lake Prespa. Here we use small boats to the island called “Big City”, in the middle of the lake Prespa. The island is the habitat for many species of birds – pelicans, cormorants, and white and grey herons. From a boat you can photograph a phenomenal hunting pelicans, which glide over the water looking for fish. In the afternoon we go on to Ohrid, driving through the National Park Galicica and stop for photo shooting. O/N Ohrid, Millenium Palace Hotel Millenium Palace is a four star hotel located in the southwest part of Macedonia, on the shores of Lake Ohrid, offering picturesque panoramic views of the lake, the old town and the Samoil's fortress. Located in the Europe's Jerusalem, the town of Ohrid, means guests can enjoy the advantages of a modern town with glorious past and rich culture in a truly idyllic setting. The hotel is just a short, pleasant walk from the old town where you will discover ancient monuments, exciting nightlife, breathtaking lake views, particularly at sunset, surrounded by natural and cultural beatuies all around and nothing but blue sky and sparkling waters of the Lake Ohrid for as far as the eye can see. Day 11, Sep 14, Ohrid/St.Naum/Ohrid In the morning we walk through the streets of Ohrid to reach the highest point – Samuil’s Fortress, which offers wonderful views on the town and the lake. We will visit the cathedral Church of St. Sofia, the Ancient theatre, and from the medieval church St. John the Evangelist, we get back in the centre by small boats. In the afternoon we drive to St. Naum monastery and the lake springs. In the monastery from 9th Century, we can see the tomb of St. Naum – student of Cyril and Methodius. According to the legends, we can still listen to his heartbeat. Today we have a chance to sail with small boats through the springs of the lake. Back to Ohrid and free time. In the evening dinner in local restaurant, including Macedonian folklore dancing group. O/N Ohrid, Millenium Palace Hotel Day 12, Sep 15, Ohrid – Canyon Matka/ Kokino/Skopje After morning shoot and breakfast we drive to the Matka canyon, one of the most popular natural attraction in Macedonia. Lunch in a national restaurant at Matka canyon. You will have free time for photo shooting. We are leaving Matka and drive to the megalithic observatory Kokino, the fourth oldest (3800 years old) and most important in the World, ranged by NASA. This is a great opportunity for photo shooting. Evening arrival to Skopje, the capital of Macedonia. O/N Skopje, Holiday Inn Day 13, Sep 16, Skopje We will start panoramic and walking city tour which includes Kale – Skopje fortress, Old Turkish Bazaar, Museum of Macedonian struggle, the Archaeological museum of Macedonia, the Stonebridge, Monument and fountain of Alexander the Great, house of Mother Teresa. After that we will drive in the Ethno village (10 km) to lunch on own and also you will have chance to take a photos of 16 different architecture type of Macedonian houses. In the afternoon we use cable car to get to one of the city’s landmark – Millenium cross, a perfect place to see the whole city from the mountain Vodno. Free time before the farewell dinner in a national restaurant. Overnight in Skopje. O/N Skopje, Holiday Inn Day 14, Sep 17, Skopje Breakfast at hotel. Check out from hotel. Transfer to the Skopje airport to catch your flight home. 
Image © Luka Esenko
Image © Luka Esenko
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Tour Registration
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Tour Cost $5,500 Trip Deposit $500 Single Supplement $550 Tip Kitty for local guides & Drivers $150 (Please bring this in cash and we will collect it from you at the first meeting) Maximum Group Size 10 2 SPOTS OPEN Trip leaders
Jeremy Woodhouse & Luka Esenko This trip is limited to only 10 participants. Flight Information
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